Barkely Sound, part 4 Cool Rocks -Dempster Island

We spent two days in Ucluelet. Groceries, propane, diesel, water and laundry were taken care of. We did get to go to the aquarium where we learned more about the sea life we had been looking at in tide pools and while rowing around islands.

We left Ucluelet early Saturday morning. We were heading to Jacques Island, which is in the south eastern corner of the Broken Group. We had been told of a good spot to anchor there. It was another overcast day with very low clouds and some fog.

low clouds
Looking west, a small island in the Broken Group and low clouds.
islands and clouds
Looking east at the mountains behind Barkley Sound.
islands and sun
The sun is starting to break through. It must be getting close to lunch time.
Nina knitting
While I do the hard work of telling the autopilot where to steer, Nina knits.
rocks
Dempster Island.

We passed Dempster Island getting to Jacques Island. Dempster Island has very interesting rocky shores. We got to Jacques Island and anchored in a cove on the south side of the island, about a half mile from Dempster Island.

After lunch we launched the dinghy and rowed around Dempster Island. Click on the picture to get a larger image.

Gypsy
Colorful Gypsy at anchor.
Francis Barkley
The next morning we saw the Frances Barkley. The Frances Barkley and the Lady Rose carry passengers and supplies down the Alberni Inlet and Barkley Sound.

Barkley Sound, part 3 Turtle Bay

For all the islands in Barkley, there are only a few good anchorages.  Turtle Island has one of them.  But whether or not they provide a good spot to drop the hook, a fun thing about all those other islands is that they are close to where you can anchor and they are usually small enough to row around easily.  Dodd Island is one of those islands just off Turtle Island.

One of the amazing features of Dodd Island is an old First Nations fish trap.  The edges are lined with rocks and it’s still easy to imagine how at high tide the fish would have been channeled into the pool at the end. Simple and brilliant at the same time.

After checking out the island, we got back in the dinghy and rowed around the island.  The shore is pretty rocky and we saw lots of sea stars and quite a few crabs.  It was exciting seeing bat stars, which we hadn’t seen before, and ochre and purple stars.  A couple of years ago the sea stars were hit by a virus that almost wiped them out.  It was good to see them coming back again.  We also saw a sea cucumber.

Bill dinghy
Bill sailing the dinghy around the anchorage at Turtle Island.  Bill went sailing.  Nina made brownies.

After a relaxing night at anchor, we headed back to Ucluelet for groceries and laundry.

Gypsy in Barkley Sound, part two

We wanted to anchor between the west side of Turret Island and two small islands. This is a sheltered anchorage and it was close to some good beachcombing. When we got close to the anchorage we saw another boat from Rose City Yacht Club, Nepenthe, a Cascade 42. Nepenthe invited us to raft up with them and we had a sociable evening. We got several suggestions of places to visit also.

These are some pictures of where we anchored. The tide is down so you can see some of the rocks that are covered at high water. You can click on a picture to get a larger image.

The next morning we wanted to row over to Trickett and Lovett Islands. At low tide those two islands and the two small islands in between form one land mass. It is a good place to go beachcombing.

chart
This is the chart of the area we are in. It is a Canadian Chart so the depths are in meters. the white area is deeper water. Blue is shallower water and tan is dry land. The asterisks and plus signs represent rocks. I have added a red A where Gypsy anchored. The green B is where we landed the dinghy to go beachcombing. It is about a mile from A to B. The purple T is where the big tree is.
beachcombing 1
When we landed the tide was coming back in. When we returned about 90 minutes later the water was up past where Bill is standing. Yes, the dinghy was anchored.

 

We landed on the sheltered side of the islands. We did our beachcombing on the more exposed side.

We had to do a bit of wading to get back across a low spot that now had about a foot of water over it. You do have to watch the tides. We launched the dinghy and rowed back towards Gypsy. We kept on rowing and landed in a small cove on Turret Island that has some very big old trees. There is a path through the woods to the trees. The woods were very calm and quiet, a peaceful retreat from the wind and waves.

After a late lunch we headed off to our next stop at Turtle Bay.

Gypsy’s trip north, part one

It was time to leave the dock. All of our preparations were as complete as they were going to be. The engine enclosure, watermaker and windvane were ready. Gypsy was loaded with provisions, we filled the water tank and cast off. Our goal was to sail up to the west Coast of Vancouver Island and see Barkley and Clayoquot Sound. The first step was to sail down the Columbia River.

empty freighter
Freighter being docked at the Port of Vancouver Washington. The tug is helping to push the freighter into position. The freighter is empty, you can tell by all the red bottom paint showing.
old freighter
Old freighter at anchor. It has seen better days. It is also empty.
tug car carrier
Tug pushing a gravel barge up river. The blue and white freighter behind is a car carrier. Portland is a major import and export port for cars.

We like seeing all of the commercial shipping activity on the river. When there are freighters near us, we stay out of the main channel, so we stay out of the path of the freighters.

freighter dredge
Near St. Helens, Oregon. The freighter is fully loaded and floating on its lines. You can see the hailing port on its transom. This ship is registered in Hong Kong. The smaller ship is a dredge. It is clearing sand from the river channel. The freighters on the Columbia River are 650 to 750 feet long and about 100 feet wide.
fuel barge
This is a fuel barge. The tug fits into a bay in the stern to push the barge.
osprey
This has become a common sight on the Columbia River. It is an osprey nest. The osprey like to build nests on the top of navigation markers.
waves
On the way to Cathlamet the wind created some chop. We are about to pass another car carrier.
pipercub
This very pristine Piper Cub float plane was at the dock in Cathlamet. It took off later in the afternoon.
dredge 2
This is one of the big dredges that work on the Columbia River. It was working just below Harrington Point, where the river widens out before it gets to Astoria.
Gypsy Astoria
We spent a couple of days in Astoria doing projects on Gypsy to get her ready for the trip up the coast. We were waiting for a good weather window for our trip.  It was much cooler temperature-wise in Astoria than in Portland, which was having a major heat wave.
Astoria_
Astoria water front, two Coast Guard cutters and the Lady Washington moored in front of the Columbia River Maritime Museum. Freighters at anchor in the distance.
Columbia bar
Crossing the bar, we left on a Friday and we had bananas on board. So much for following traditional superstitions. It may explain why we both felt queasy. The grey skys were a reliable constant on the trip. We made it to Ucluelet, BC Saturday evening. Cleared customs and went out for pizza.
Barkley fog 1
Sunday morning we left Ucluelet and headed for Pipestem Inlet on Barkley Sound. The morning was foggy.
sun brerak
The sun did start to break through late in the morning.
monitor steering
While sailing up to Pipestem Inlet we rigged up the Monitor windvane. It is steering Gypsy.

 

near Pipestem
Near Pipestem Inlet, by Bazett Island.
near pipestem 3
Cove behind Bazett Island.

near Pipestem 2

We anchored in a small cove behind Bazett Island. There was not much swing room for Gypsy. We decided to run a couple of lines to shore to keep Gypsy away from the rocks. While we were getting the dinghy ready we heard something crashing through the brush on shore. A black bear walked out on the beach. We waited until we were sure it had moved on to row ashore and tie our lines to a couple of trees.

During the afternoon we saw two different bears. The next morning the smaller bear was back. it spent about 45 minutes looking for its breakfast on the beach. It would roll over the rocks on the beach and eat the little crabs that live under the rocks.

bear 1

bear 2

bear 3
To make sure the bears were gone when we untied our stern lines, we rowed ashore loudly singing “the bear went over the mountain, oh I feel so silly.”  It must have scared them off because we didn’t see or hear them again.
relaxing at anchor
Nina reading at anchor.  Mmmm, what to cook next?
Pipestem 2
The next morning we went up Pipestem Inlet. It was a sunny day.
Lucky Creek
We then stopped at Lucky Creek and saw the falls. There are several falls and pools.  Go in at high tide and wear swim suits and climbing shoes so you can work your way up the pools.
fog from sea
As we sailed to our next anchorage, by Turrett Island the fog started rolling in.
fog from sea 2
Fogging in.
rocky shore
Rock shores on one of the islands. Most of the islands are very rocky.  They are fun to row around.  The sea stars are coming back and we saw a number of edible sized rock crabs around the shorelines.

Watermaker, Monitor and Misc Covers

First off, we have a new site: gypsykramer.com.  Same great, scintillating content, now with no more pesky ads.   The old wordpress address will still work, should you choose.

We’ve been working on getting things shipshape, so to speak.  The watermaker is installed and successfully makes water!  We did a test run in the Columbia and it came out clear and clean.  No small task, given how much silt runs down the river.  Here’s what it looks like with everything in place.  We have easy access to the sink for test or sample water and runoff.  Everything is accessible and we still have storage room in the quarterberth.

watermaker test
The final installation for the watermaker utilizing space in the quarterberth.
instrument cover 1
All the wiring for the instruments comes in over the sink in the galley. 
instrument cover 2
The cover for the instrument wiring. The wires in the upper left are for the backup anchor windlass switch. It will have a small Blue Seas panel to its right that will run the engine fan blower, engine room lights and deck light. We had a piece of mirrored plexi left over from the head mirrors, so that got hung on the cover as well.  We will need to round the edges and corners of the box as Nina discovered the cover can be a head hazard when rummaging in the pantry.
engine cover
Also getting covered is the engine. Nina stuffed down the starboard locker screwing in supports for the panels. The more stuff we add the smaller the space gets. Lucky for Bill, he really doesn’t fit in there anymore.  We glued on lead lined foam insulation on the engine side of the panels.  With all the panels in place, the engine noise is significantly dampened.  
monitor 2
Every good backside needs some direction. After rebuilding the Monitor windvane, it still fit on the boat and looks like some beautiful boat bling that will actually work.
monitor 1
Here it is without the model.
monitor steering
Steering lines run from the Monitor to the tiller. When we were in the shop, one of the design features in the new cockpit comings was a set of holes to run the windvane lines through with blocks leading the lines on the outside of the cockpit. There is too much curve on the coming for this to work without serious chafing and the alignment to the tiller was all wrong so Bill added a block on each side to run them through inside the cockpit. To minimize the places to trip over lines, we’ll add another pair behind the openings in the cockpit sides.
anchor
New bling on the other end of the boat. It’s a 45-pound Mantus and besides looking serious it fits on the bow roller better than the old Delta.  We do need to come up with a more sophisticated tie down system, but this one will work for now.
dinghy bag
With all the new bling, we needed an accessory bag as well. Custom design for holding dinghy chocks and lines.  The dinghy plug even fits in it.  And then we hide it all away in a locker.

Summertime, And the Reading is Easy

Summer is here and what’s a better way to enjoy your time than to find a shady spot and read a fun book. So I am going to take a break from boat projects to suggest a book. It is Murder at the Marina, by author and sailor Ellen Jacobson. It is her first novel and it is a good one.

We met Ellen through her sister Susan, who also works at the library. Back when we had Gypsy in Tom Becker’s shop, Nina was talking to Susan about our boat project and Susan responded that we were almost as crazy as her sister, who used to live aboard a sailboat in New Zealand. Well, that did not sound crazy at all to us and we started following Ellen’s blog. We got to meet her when she was visiting in Portland. She now lives aboard in Florida.

Ellen’s book Murder at the Marina is set at Palm Tree Marina in Florida. The book starts with Mollie and her husband Scooter having a romantic dinner to celebrate their tenth anniversary. During dinner Scooter announces to Mollie that he is buying her a sailboat. Mollie was expecting serious jewelry and is not thrilled. When Scooter takes her to see the boat the next day she is faced with mildew and peeling paint. She also meets Captain Dan, the fast talking boat broker who is selling them the boat. Dan tells them that they are invited to a BBQ at the marina that evening, so Mollie heads off in search of brownies and a bottle of wine.

The following morning, Mollie and Scooter go to the boat to start cleaning her up, but when they get there they find a dead body in the vee berth. Mollie does not want the boat. The dead body is even less welcome. The problem is she is making friends and enjoying life at the marina, so Mollie decides to find out what is going on at the Palm Tree marina.

Mollie is a cross between Nancy Drew and Miss Marple, and about halfway between their ages too. This cozy mystery will give you a feel for marina life in Florida. You will also learn a bit about boats. A fun summer read.

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Solstice Salutations

We last left you in heavy project mode. We wanted to get Gypsy into usable shape so we could do more than work on her, like actually get her out sailing. Our first goal was to get the cabin looking finished. We had unvarnished trim and lemon yellow paint still showing. The varnishing needed to get done first, so May was varnish month. We varnished and we worked on enclosing the engine space in the cockpit lockers. We got the varnishing done in time to clean the cabin and get Gypsy ready for the Memorial Day cruise. We had a fun weekend not working on the boat. The engine enclosure is still in process. Since the engine was not enclosed we get to invent the whole system. This means you do one bit and then you design the next bit… It may be done before we sail to Mexico.

cabin not painted
The cabin looks pretty good. The vee berth still has the lemon yellow paint.
ladder
The ladder is varnished and we have our new Treadmaster steps. You can see that the quarter berth still needs varnish. The ladder has come a long way from its plywood back and solid sides.  It now weighs less, too.

The painting came next. We piled all the cushions up in the main cabin and painted the vee berth and quarter berth.

cushions covered
No ghost, just cushions.

 

 

Nina painting
Nina painting.
cabin painted
The green is gone!!!

Bill made new plexiglass sliders for the head and galley cabinets. He almost fainted when he got the bill for the plexi. They do look good!

galley with plexi

head with plexi

mirrors in
We also got plexi mirrors. They will be great.
wind vane rebuild
While we were doing the painting, our dining room table became Monitor central. We rebuilt our wind vane. We replaced all of the plastic bearings and the blocks. While doing this, we discovered that 316 stainless is not that rust resistant. There were some every iffy bolts that have now been pounded out and also replaced. Anyways, the wind vane is ready to mount on Gypsy. The 3M stainless polish works very well at removing rust.
watermaker 1
We also started installing our watermaker. This is the main pump and reverse osmosis membrane unit. It is mounted above the quarter berth. We wanted a location that had good access and this was about the only choice. We chose this unit because it had a bigger output and a lower amp draw per gallon than the  small Katadyn watermakers. We will be able to make 6 gallons per hour for an 8 amp draw.
watermaker 2
The rest of the gear for the watermaker will mount on the board that will hang below the shelf. Getting the layout settled was a big step. Now Bill just needs to mount everything and run the plumbing.

The other project we finally got to was to have Rogers Marine come and troubleshoot our instruments. We were having problems with our radar and GPS. The problem turned out to be a defective Lowrance GPS. If we had been able to deal with this sooner we may have been able to get warranty coverage.  Lesson learned is deal with problems sooner rather than later.

So that is what we have been doing. We are working to get Gypsy ready for her summer cruise to Vancouver Island. We have a month to get her ready.